On Wednesday, I set
off with 50 other passengers and passengerettes, mostly the latter, on a tour
of northeastern Manitoba that included stops at Lac du Bonnet, Pinawa Dam
Provincial Heritage Park, Whitemouth, and, finally, Lockport.
Soon after we
departed, our tour guide, Judy, introduced herself. I groaned when she told us
that this would only be her second tour. I would groan louder when we got to
Lac du Bonnet.
We took PTH 44 east
around Garson and Tyndall before getting to Beausejour. At the junction of PR
302/215, we spotted a group of cyclists heading east.
As you can see, PTH 44
narrows to two lanes east of Beausejour and has no paved shoulders.
The cyclists were
certainly well within their rights and did have reflective gear on, but I have
to question their wisdom in choosing this route. The less-travelled PTH 15
through Anola would be a better option. Another better choice would be PTH 1, which
has paved shoulders for much of the way between Winnipeg
and Ontario
and, furthermore, is twinned for most of the way.
I also noted what
looked to be the old highway on the north side that could have been a safer
alternative for them. While it’s probably not in great shape, it’s got to be
better than taking your life in your hands going elbow to elbow with cars and
trucks along this narrow, busy highway. Whoever thought that this was a good
idea, to borrow a line from Rambo III,
needs to go home and think it over again for a very, very long time.
After we passed the
cyclists, we turned north at Seddons Corner and followed PR 214. For those not
familiar with highway history, this was where PTH 44, originally known as PTH
10, ended back in 1925. The original PTH 11 followed the current PR 214 north
from here and meandered its way north to Lac du Bonnet and beyond.
Just south of Lac du
Bonnet, I spotted a misspelled sign for McArthur Avenue. I remain amazed as to
how often I spot these signs. My collection has grown to the point that I have more than enough to fill at least one book.
We disembarked in
front of the Lakeview Inn, where Judy neglected to tell us
when we needed to be back on the bus. I caught up to her and asked. I shrieked
when she told me “15 minutes.” This was a busload of mostly seniors who needed
15 minutes just to get on and off the bus. Still, she insisted on the 15 minute
time frame, so I set off for a very accelerated tour of the community.
The beach.
A new condominium
development under construction.
Second Street.
Huffing and puffing, I
made it back only to have Judy tell me that she misread the itinerary and that
we had another 40 minutes.
Gee, thanks.
Trying to catch my
breath in the humid 35° heat, I tried to cover some of the rest of the town.
Apparently, it’s not
Lac du Bonnet, it’s “LAC DU BONNET.” I know at least one reader who will
appreciate this.
This sign doesn’t
shout at you.
I did what I could
with my remaining time there and, dripping with sweat, I returned to the bus.
Our next stop was the Pinawa
Dam Provincial
Heritage Park.
It is the home of the ruins of the old Pinawa Dam that once provided electrical
power to the trolley buses in Winnipeg.
Our driver, Reny (I
hope I’m spelling it correctly) drove us across a grass-covered field down to
the dam site.
From there, a local
guide, Vivian Thompson, met us and gave us a guided tour of the site.
Old turbines on
display.
The old dam.
One of the many
walkways through the ruins. It’s not as bad as it looks, but if you’re planning
a trip there, my advice would be to dress for agility, not for fashion. Leave
your high-heeled shoes at the park entrance.
We ignored the sign
and continued along our journey.
The rapids and rushing
water in the midst of all the greenery you’d expect to find in the Canadian Shield makes this an absolute must-see
destination.
Most of the people in
our group went along for the journey, but some stayed behind.
Above is Judy, our
tour guide.
In addition to taking
in all the breathtaking scenery, there’s also quite a bit of ground to cover.
On a day like this when it was so hot, I was glad that I had plenty of water
with me.
I really didn’t know
what to expect out of the dam site, but this stop alone already made the trip
worthwhile. I hope to get back there again and I would recommend a visit to
anyone who hasn’t been there.
For anyone planning to
drive there directly from Winnipeg,
please note that the dam site is actually closer to Lac du Bonnet than to
Pinawa. I would recommend any one of a number of routes that can take you to
Lac du Bonnet and then use PR 313 and PR 520, shown above, to access the park.
PR 520 is a low-grade
gravel road and, upon your return, I would recommend returning north to PR 313
and a paved road rather than travelling south on PR 520 to PR 211.
Nonetheless, we did
proceed south on PR 520 and crossed the Winnipeg River
on PR 211, where they were working on the bridge.
Our next stop was
Whitemouth for lunch.
Why Whitemouth, you
ask?
I’m still asking the
same question.
Before leaving us,
Vivian said “you’ll be eating well,” when Judy mentioned our next destination.
I knew that was the
kiss of death.
We got to Whitemouth
in the early afternoon and pulled up to Woodsmoke Adventures, where Anita
Geisel, the owner/operator, came out to meet us. We weren’t even sure we were
in the right place, since there were no signs and neither Judy nor Reny seemed
sure of the directions.
We disembarked and
walked in past all the trees as someone across the street at the Whitemouth Regional Health
Center watched us with a
puzzled look on her face. I could just read that bubble caption over her head
that read, “What the heck are these people doing here?”
For many of us, the
first stop was the bathroom and there was a long line at the outhouse. They
were rather primitive facilities, but at least there was soap and hand
sanitizer available.
From there, we had one
of two choices for seating arrangements. We could sit inside the greenhouse and
baste in a human slow cooker or sit outside and fry like an egg while being
eaten by mosquitoes. Apparently, air conditioning has not reached Whitemouth
quite yet.
I chose the slow
cooker. It was, however, nicely decorated.
Anita’s helper then
put out the menu.
Again, I picked up
more material for that future book on misspelled signs, but this was virtual
write-off for me. As always on these tours, I came prepared and enjoyed my
peanut butter sandwich while chugging down some of the ice water they provided.
During one the trips to
refill my water cup, I noticed one of their business cards.
After getting home, I
visited woodsmokeadventures.ca only to get a message from my browser saying the
site was not found. Upon further investigation, I discovered that the domain
name had not even been registered.
Personally, I would
register a domain name before
getting business cards printed quoting the address for a Web site. But maybe
that’s just me.
Before leaving, I took
a stroll through the bushes behind their property that lines the Whitemouth River.
After the meal, we
returned to the highway and Judy gave us the opportunity to stop at the Hill
Top Bakery and Tea Room, which had supplied the buns that most of the people
ate.
Before disembarking,
someone asked, “Is this the right bakery?”
I responded, “How many
bakeries are there in Whitemouth?”
A few minutes later,
we were back on the road headed for our last stop, the Half Moon in Lockport. It is a place
that I’ve passed by so often on my bike trips, but yet I had never been inside
before.
It’s decked
out like a 50’s-style diner and seems well-maintained.
I couldn’t help but
question the wisdom of this stop, however. This was hardly a long drive from Whitemouth
and, especially after being pushed for time in Lac du Bonnet, we made a long stop like
this only a ten-minute drive from the Perimeter.
In any event, we
returned to Winnipeg
safely, where I have more than 600 pictures to show for the day-long outing. I
have to give top marks to Reny, who, unlike some of the drivers I’ve had
lately, did not do any of the following while driving:
-
read
e-mail with his BlackBerry
-
eat a full
course meal balanced on the steering wheel
-
pack his
belongings in a duffel bag
-
write the
first couple of chapters of a novel
-
reorganize
his CD collection
I hope Judy will have
gained some experience by the time I see her on a tour again. Most notably, I
did thoroughly appreciate that she did not succumb to the urge to have a bingo game
during the trip. It was one of the very few bingo-free bus trips that I’ve been on.